Jamin' Leather Care & Conditioning

Q&A on Waterproofing Leather

Do I need to waterproof a new leathers after I buy it?
Depends! Articles that will often be exposed to rain or outdoor environment (morning dew, etc.) will require it. Especially motorcycle accessories and leather apparel worn on the bike. We don't recommend storing leather bags on a motorcycle in a damp garage or storage since the dampness will destroy from underneath and inside the article. Remove the bags from the bike before long periods of storage time.

What is the best waterproofing product available?
Mink Oil for black leathers with low to high luster. Extra soft leather (AKA naked leather, newbuck, or buffed leathers as well as suede) we recommend our Protect-All spray. Protect-All is one of the only formulas that will not darken the leather.

How often do I have to reapply the waterproofing?
Depending on use and exposure to the elements. Often once a year if using a mink oil product and once a season with Protect-All. The protector will breakdown in time, especially with extended exposure to moisture or sun.

Are the products I use to protect my shoes work on my jacket or any leather article?
Read the labels. But generally yes. If it is made for leather it will work fine on all your leather goods.

Is protecting with Silicone any good?
Honestly, we don't know since we don't sell it. How's that for being straight forward. Recently it has been said that silicone can breakdown the leather and ruin it. But I'm sure there are storage concerns that may effect any negative results. It used to be a product sworn by many for years by some.

• restores leather softness
• protects against stiffening
• protects against drying out
• allows leather to breathe
• makes leather more pliable

LIQUID MINK OIL
A-MO54037 - Will darken light colors. A black leather favorite. Longest lasting water protection of all available. Unlike paste, will not cake up in stitching and discolor in time. Apply freely and rub in for your degree of softness. A natural water protection and highly recommended by Jamin' Leather.™ [1#]

• waterproof protection
• conditioning
• 8 ounce bottle
  

• wax free
• prevents cracking
• restores dried leather
• 8 ounce bottle

• helps restore dirty leather
• rain and stain protection
• prevents staining
• suitable for all colors
• does not darken leather
• water repellant seal
• allows leather and suede to breathe
• use on boots or dress shoes
• 5.5 oz can
• ideal for all sude and top grain leather

Q &A on Cleaning Leather

Do I need to routinely need to clean my leather?
No. We recommend only to clean leather if it is dirty and most of all noticeably dirty.

How do I clean my leather item?
Most surface dirt will clean with a damp cloth (save the money on costly cleaning bills). If a finished leather with a low to high luster you can use a touch of mild dish soap on a clean cloth. If still dirty you will have to visit a local cleaners to send it out professionally. Oil stains and ink don't come out most of the time. We recommend shopping Jamin' Leather Online Catalog for a replacement.

My leathers smell. What can I do?
That depends on what it smells like. The rawhide smell can naturally smell like a cow pasture. But most likely what you are smelling is the dyes and finishes on the hide Almost nothing can be done to instantly remove the smell. All you should do is wear it out doors often. The more you wear it and the warmth of your body will eventually soften the smell but never eliminate it. If your leather smells like body odor you may need to take it to a professional to clean the jacket. There are some chemical cleaners that could help but we don't know or use any to recommend..

How do I clean my suede item?
Try our Suede cleaner for less than $6, otherwise do not bother. It can be sent out for a professional cleaning but often can cost more than the article is worth to clean it. Sometimes suede brushes (soft wire bristle brush) work a bit, but often the person cleaning will brush off too much suede and create a bald spot that is worse.

LIQUID SADDLE SOAP
A-SS54031 - No more yucky paste, now available in a pump sprayer. A deep cleaner and conditioner for all your natural and finished leathers. Just spray it on and wash with a soft damp cloth. Rub in any excess as you clean. Can be safe for some light colors, test an inconspicuous area first and let dry. [1#]

• restores natural oils
• Not for suede, naked, or nubuck
• Great for garments, shoes, saddlery
• 8 oz. bottle

Q&A on Conditioning Leather

Do I need to condition a new coat or leather article when I buy it?
No. All leather articles in new condition are tanned with all the conditioners needed for immediate use.

What would Jamin' Leather recommend for leather conditioner?
Not any one specific brand. We offer Mink Oil and Pitch Blend Brand. Most all available today are of good quality and will do as the show on the label. Be sure to use the right product for the right job. Understand that a conditioner can also be a water repellent (like the 2 we offer) but most don't protect against water damage. Conditioner should not be used on suede or light color since they may change the color and texture.

Will conditioning make my leather last longer?
Yes. But understand it is not always needed on brand new articles. Conditioning will improve the life of the garment by restoring natural properties of the hide that often dry out in time.

My leather appears to be stiff. Will conditioning help?
On an old article, possibly. On a damaged article, no. More than likely it is stiff because it was stored in a very hot place. I.E.: trunk of a car, back seat of a car, on radiator or heating element, or outdoors. If you really like the article it might be worth a try to condition it.

How often do I need to reapply conditioner?
Only as often as you find results. Over conditioning can make the article oily. Depending on how much the article is absorbing the conditioner will determine the frequency. In general terms once a year to once every other year.

Q&A on Repairing Leather

My jacket (leather article) is scratched up. How do I make it look new?
On finished leathers with a low to high luster a shoe polish will work. But if not buffed out completely off the polish will rub off on your clothes. We don't recommend trying to touch up light color leathers or suede, it just won't work and you will ruin the article. Another trick for this type of leather (black only) is to get some black shoe dye from the local grocery store and dab it on a wad of cotton cloth, rub it on some junk cardboard and get the wet dye spot damp. Then rub it on the scratches. BE CAREFUL, too much dye will show and be obvious. You should be able to buff it and it will almost look as good as new.

The stitching in my leather came apart. What do I do?
Easily repairable by almost anyone who sews. On extra heavy leathers go to a local shoemaker, they've got the right equipment. Most leathers can be sewn on conventional machines with a leather needle. The person repairing may need to separate the liner first to get inside.

There is a rip (or hole) in my leather. What do I do?
Start shopping at jaminleather.com for another one. There is hardly any repair person willing to replace parts of a leather article for many reasons. Some reasons include matching the color, texture, grain and thickness of leather (especially black leather). Temporary patches could be attached on the inside or out to hold it together, but often they make the article embarrassingly ugly. Keep that jacket for house painting.

My jacket is faded bad. What can I do?
Buy another. We realize you probably don't want to give up old faithful, BUT there is one thing that will help. Blacks and very dark colors can be rejuvenated with the magic of mink oil spray. The mink oil will darken the hide, adding color, as well as waterproofing and conditioning. If you spray it on be sure to spray it evenly and on every inch or it will be noticeable where you touched it up. You might get some more life out of old faithful after all!

My leather appears to have shrunk. What's up?
Either you gained a lot of weight or it was stored in a very hot place. I.E.: trunk of a car, back seat of a car, on radiator or heating element, or outdoors. Unfortunately there is nothing you can do except replace it.

Pigskin - Economically priced leather, noticeable hair folicle pattern, thin leather generally .8-1.0 mm thick.
Pig suede - Economically priced suede, noticable hair folicle pattern, very soft, thin suede generally .8-1.0 mm thick.
Cowhide - Maximum valued material for texture and appearance, top grain finish, extremely durable, firm yet easy to break in, comfortable, thickness vary greatly from .8 mm thick thur 1/8" thick for belting and saddlery, grain can be from extra smoothe through a pebble grain uniform pattern, generally less expensive grains will have some spider web type gain pattern.
Cow suede - Maximum durability in a suede, comfortable, can come is a variety of softness, thickness can vary greatly from .8 mm thick thru 1/8" thick.
Goatskin - Economically priced leather more durable than pigskin but with a courser tiny pebble grain finish. Generally only available in weights of .9 to 1.1 mm thick.
Horse hide - Can be expensive but lately has been pricing similar to cowhide but happens to be harder to work with, stiffer and stronger. Ideal for bag and cases or heavy biker garments. Harder to find these days. Thicknesses from 1.0 to 1/8" thick.
Split Leather - Economically priced leather that can appear like top grain finish or a rustic cracked finish leather. strong and durable and can vary in thickness from .8 mm thicn thru 1/8" thick.
Calfskin - Rare in comparison to other leathers, baby cow, more durable than cow, thin, softer, thickness range from .8 mm to 2.0 mm thickness.
Buffalo - Value priced, heavy duty leather, hair folicles and grain often evident, durable and generally found in thickness from .9 mm to 3.0 mm thick.
Steerhide - A skin from a male cow or male buffalo that is generally the same properties of each but a bit tougher than the female skins.
Sheepskin/Lambskin - Extremely soft, comfortable, pliable but can stretch and excessively distort the shape of the garment after excessive use, some tanning can be expensive, softer and plumper is more expensive, less expensive skins have a tight small pebble grain and the cheapest skins will be course in it's feel.
Deerskin - Most value in softness vs durability, extremely soft and extremely durable, generally very expensive. Pebble grain common. Soft touch and somewhat spongy in it's feel. Thickness is between 1.0 and 3.0 mm thick.
Chamois - Is baby lambskin. Absorbant and naturally yellow in color. This is the split section of the hyde. Can be used in washable garments, stains easily, extremely soft to the touch and my dry stiff unless hung neatly to dry. Thickness is from .8 to 1.2 mm thick.
Naked - This is a tanning process or lack of finishes giving it the Naked name. Any skin can be naked but most commonly you will find naked leathers in cowhide with all the durability and qualities of such. Generally a more expensive skin because they have to use choice skins (without markings and scars) for the leather to be used in manufacturing without waste.
Distressed - A term used commonly these days as an uneven colored finish. Most common in light brown naked buffalo leather (where each pannel on a garment is rarely a perfect match due to the unique qualities of each and every skin). In the 50's though the 80's distressed leathers had been where the painted outter coat finish cam off or rubbed off during use. Some people still use words like "rub off" or "pull up" (pull up has extra oils in it for a similar effect). Distressed can come in a variety of thicknesses, textures, skins and even colors.
Patch Leather - Random scraps of leather are sewn together and then pressed to make a large flat garment later cut into pattern parts to make things from jackets to bags. Generally any type of leather is used here. Most common is garment weights of .9 to 1.0 mm thick in a variety of pigskins, lambskins, goatskins, sheepskins and even cowhide.

Jamin' Leather recommends mostly cowhide or buffalo leather for protection for riding or motorcycle purposes.